Shorts … sewing’s final frontier?

For me, being part of the Curvy Sewing Collective is about pushing the boundaries and challenging the stereotypes for curvy and plus size women. This is particularly true of the sewing world where almost every pattern designed as a specific plus size range magically transforms itself into a shapeless, wafty tent. Quite why the big four pattern companies feel that anyone over a size 16 should hide themselves ‘neath heavily patterned interpretations of potato sacks is beyond me. Obviously, not all garments should be fitted like corsets, but even if you’re making a simple shift dress, it should at least skim some of your body, rather than flood it in gathers, pleats and acres of extra fabric. Basically, this limited choice sucks.

However, what is wonderful is that there are a growing number of forward thinking indie designers out there who are prepared to challenge this thinking. They are making fun and fitted patterns for a never seen before range of shapes and sizes. The impact of this on us plus sizers should not be underestimated. It allows us to sew things that previously would have been unthinkable. Things like fitted shorts. *gulp*

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I am pretty happy with my legs, well, truth be told, some bits of my legs. I am blessed with a shapely ankle and an okay pair of pins til I get to my knees, and then, I have to be honest, I lose the love a little. They are perfectly serviceable upper legs, they can tap dance up a storm and carry me miles in any chosen direction, but mostly I prefer not to have them on full show on a daily basis. Apparently I am not alone in this opinion. It also turns out, after some discussion with my girlfriends, that shorts on a plus size figure are a contentious issue. Seriously. This rational bunch of modern thinking women made the following comments when I mentioned I was pattern testing a pair of fitted A line shorts:

“Well, you know there are some things a big girl just shouldn’t wear.”

“Really? Are you sure you want to have that on your blog?”

I could feel my slack-jawed incredulous fish mouth approaching, so I shut up and let the topic die. You know what makes me most sad about those remarks? The fact that these women, my friends, feel that just because you are bigger you should be limited on what you are “allowed” to wear. You may have gathered that I am not an “it’s allowed/not allowed” kind of gal. F*** it. If I want to wear a floaty potato sack, a pair of hot pants or a bikini, I will damn well do so, because I will not have society dictate how it is okay (or not okay) to express myself in fashion. As an act of outright “allowed to” rebellion I am seriously considering making a swimming costume this summer and yes, if I do there will be blog photos. Better watch out Fat Fashion Police … I’m gunning for you!

Okay, mini rant over … back to the shorts pattern in question.

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This particular pattern is the brain child of Katy & Laney and is their debut pattern. The Tap Shorts are fitted at a high waist and A-line in silhouette, much like the movie stars of the 1950s would wear, and feature three versions, with options including an invisible zippered side seam, an unusual front pleat and back welt pockets. Like many of the Curvy Sewing Collective I tested View A. The pattern was easy to assemble and cut out, with perfectly matching symbols.

Because I was unsure how the pattern would work for my shape I decided to make a muslin. Much though I hate to do them, recent fit issues on seemingly simple patterns have led me to be a bit more cautious than normal. I cut the straight size 18 which worked perfectly for fit. I made the waistband a bit deeper and overall it was good, but I had two issues. First up was the design pleat …this looked perfectly lovely on someone with a flat stomach, but my stomach is not flat. In fact, even if I lay down on the floor and suck it in, it still has a gentle curve. The implications of a rounded belly in combination with the pleat in my muslin version made it look like my stomach was trying to talk every time I moved. The huge fabric “mouth” was going to need some addressing. Secondly, I felt it the fit was too tight over my stomach, again I think because I need extra width in the centre front area.

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For the final version I used a lovely tiny star print stretch denim from myfabrics.co.uk, a sister fabric to the gorgeous floral denim I used for my Betsy skirt. To alleviate my fitting issues I topstitched down the front pleats (I think pretty much everyone in the Curvy Sewing Collective who made the View A shorts did the same). I also added half an inch or so to the centre front as per the instructions in my Pants for Real People book. That made a massive difference to the front view. As for the back view, I decided that the full welt pockets would add too much bulk, but I was keen to break up the expanse of fabric over my rear, so I added two fake welts.

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The jury is still out on the length of these shorts as for me I think they would be more flattering in a slightly shorter or longer fit. When I looked at my RTW shorts they are either a couple of inches longer or shorter than these, so that will definitely be an adjustment I make in the future. So in summary, this is a good A line shorts pattern. The high waist makes them very comfortable to wear, but if you do have a rounded stomach you may find yourself having to fiddle with the fit. I would definitely recommend a muslin.

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Why not mosey on over to the other sewistas on the Katy & Laney Tap Short blog tour to see how these shorts work on a myriad of other figures. Mary at Idle Fancy ran up view C with slash side pockets and a fly front which I think look awesome.

This garment concludes a long line of pattern testing over the last few months and it’s been extremely enjoyable to push myself and make things out of my sewing comfort zone. It’s been a wonderful opportunity to work with some great indie designers and raise awareness of the curvy and plus size sewing community. That being said, I am aware there has been something of a hoo-haa of late about the whole pattern testing business. Just to set the record straight here, I am always honest about the good and bad points of patterns I post about and will continue to do so. Without exception all the indie designers I have tested for have been brilliant at receiving feedback and have given me great tips in the making process. No payment is made by the designers other than the goodwill gesture of sending me the new pattern to test for free (and there I was holding out for a basket of kittens!). Hope that clears that up.

Anyhoo … now the testing is over I am so excited to sew whatever I like from my stash! I have such plans. I am tempted to take a day off work just so I can lay in the middle of a nest of fabric stash and wait for the sewing mojo to overtake me. I have already cut out and nearly finished a very European take on the Lady Skater dress … with ruffles. Yes, I do think I am John Travolta’s girlfriend in Saturday Night Fever. Bring me my cork heeled wedges and let’s go to the disco! More details coming soon.

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Colour mad designer rampages gleefully through the world of plus size sewing! Oh, and there may be shoes … and cats.

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